I bought this for my 2003 Silverado 1500. The OEM hitch included a mount for the wiring connector as part of the hitch. The replacement, Curt hitch 14332, fit well and installation was easy. However, while the hitch includes hoops for attaching safety chains, it does NOT include a means for attaching the wiring receptacle. A bracket is available separately at extra expense. Customer Service provided the part number C58000 (shown in the photo with this review). It slips on over the hitch receiver. Description: "CURT 58000 Easy-Mount Vehicle Trailer Wiring Connector Mounting Bracket for 2-Inch Receiver, 4 or 5-Way Flat, 6 or 7-Way Round."

This was for a work truck that frequently tows 10000lbs. Installation was a very direct and simple event. This was immediately put to use the following day towing a mid-sized John Deere tractor to a job site and this hitch was more than up to the task.The only downside seems to be universal amongst hitches in that it does not come with a mount for the round 7 way trailer light/brake connector the factory hitch comes with. It's an easily resolved issue though, providing the plate the connector mounts to on the old hitch is intact. You simply cut it off the old hitch and either weld or bolt it to this one. I didn't weld the plate on as I didn't want to A) give all the junk Pennsylvania sprays on the roads something to immediately rust, which welds will promote B) the finish on this hitch is pretty damn good looking!I simply drilled/tapped 2 8mmx1.25 holes and bolted the plate to the hitch so there's easy access to the trailer light plug when hooking up to a trailer.Take it form a long time professional tech/mechanic/garage owner. You can't go wrong with a CURT hitch!

Good product, sturdy and can handle my larger trailer with ease now, it replaced my old hitch, only issue at install was the instructions were for British, or right side driver's seat, so that was the only thing that was a little confusing at first, other than that no issues

My truck is a 2002 K1500 regular cab shortbed. The existing trailer hitch was made by a company that is out of business. I could not determine the rating for the existing hitch so I decided to replace it with the Curt 10,000lb class 4 model 14332. Safety first.New hitch arrives, off with the old AWP hitch. First hitch I got didn't fit. The factory customer service Rep was informative and patient checking my actual dimensions with prints. Rep determined to send replacement hitch. I had to reinstall the existing AWP Durahitch. AWP hitch pops right back on in 10 minutes.Second hitch arrived and was also difficult to line up but not as bad. Called Rep again. A different Rep suggested I check hitch for 'square'. Sure enough, the hitches were both bent, probably in shipment. This hitch has no gussets between the main tube and side plates. This makes the hitch easy to bend if the box is dropped on a corner. These hitches need to be checked and probably straightened right out of the box. The side plates are easily checked with a carpenters square to determine if they are bent. On the first hitch both side plates were bent and on the second hitch only one side plate was bent. I had to straighten the one side plate on the second hitch by sticking the side plate between two floorboards on my trailer and pulling on the main tube. With a couple of tugs on that the side plate was straight and true 90deg once again.Now the hitch would line up with the frame holes acceptably well. The two bolts into the bumper were a different story. My truck is 16years old and it has seen occasional minor trauma to the rear bumper. Bumper looked straight and true by 'eyeball', however, hitch holes would not line up by half the threads. If this is the case with your truck you may have to loosen ALL the dozen-or-so bumper bolts so the bumper can get wiggled around till all the holes line up. ALL the hitch and bumper bolts need to be snugged and backed off a turn so the whole assembly can get settled into it's happy place. Next all the hitch bolts get snugged again gradually making sure all parts line up correctly. Then the bumper bolts get snugged gradually. Then torque everything in stages.This is where the hardware issues come to light. The two supplied bolts that fasten the hitch to the bumper are of good quality. The washers are useless. Plan to buy two hardened steel flat washers to back-up the supplied lockwashers. The holes in the hitch bracket are too large to afford a suitable surface for the lockwashers. The two supplied coned/toothed washers wont even fit over the bolts. The factory needs to be give attention to the hardware package and directions.Now I finally have a Curt class 4 hitch properly installed on my truck. I also have a bent Curt class 4 hitch to repackage and ship back. This is always a screaming good time. There is also a perfectly good AWP Durahitch sitting outside in the rain. The AWP hitch is well gusseted between the main tube and side plates. It will not bend as easily. Considering the whole affair, did I spend my time and money wisely?

Perfect fit to truck frame, looks liike a good paint job for rust prevention, slightly better tow rating than rusted out factory hitch it replaced ,I would say Curt makes a good product.

Very nice product and very well put together. Was an easy install and went without any real problems. It was a little difficult getting all the bolts lined up with the holes in the receiver and the truck frame and bumper.I had to really loosen the bolts to be able to move the receiver around to get all the bolts in. Not really difficult but don't be tempted to screw them in more than 25%. I was actually able to install this all by myself in about 30 mins of actual work time. How I did it was I first wrapped the middle of the hitch where the receiver is with the thick paper they used to warp it in for shipping so it wouldn't get scratched or chip the powder coating. I then propped it on a floor jack and jacked it up to where it was about 3/4 way up then I pushed down on the actual receiver with one hand and kept jacking it until it was into position on the frame. The jack will hold it in position against the frame. Most of the weight is in the front of the receiver so it's really very easy doing it this way by yourself. You can then loosen the receiver against the frame a bit so you can wiggle it around once you get under the truck. Then you can run a couple of bolts in to hold it, remove the jack and run the rest in. Then tighten them all up and you are good to go. I also used antiseaze grease since it will see lots of water and grime and I don't want the bolts to get rusted and frozen on there.One thing I will say is the packaging is ridiculous. It already weighs a ton and the put it in a box with only padding on the bottom for the heaviest part with the most weight. My box had holes punched in a few different spots and you could see where it must have been dropped by UPS at some point because the end of the receiver was punched through and had actually flattened out a little on the corner chipping the powder coating, now if you know anything about powder coating once chipped you cant just touch it up like paint. It will eventually lift from rust and peal. I really wanted to send it back but needed it for the weekend to haul a car and even if it rusts (they all eventually do) it's made out of thick metal so it's not like it will rust through like a car body. I just like my things to start off new especially if Im paying good money for it. All in all its a really nice hitch and I'd recommend just getting the class IV over the class III for a few dollars more if there is ever a chance you will tow more than you expect to now.I have no doubt this will outlast my truck and looks great tucked up under my bumper also.